New York Fashion Week: Marchesa autumn/winter 2010/11 collection

By Hilary Alexander, Fashion Director at New York Fashion Week Published: 2:59PM GMT 18 Feb 2010

The exotic, Irish-born dancer Lola Montez (left) inspired the Marchesa collection (centre) for next season. The label"s designers, Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman, were joined by Rachel Zoe when they presented their collection during New York Fashion Wee Photo: CORBIS/ AP/ GETTY

Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, the girls behind the ultra-extravagant Marchesa label, turned their fall/winter 2010/2011 presentation at the Chelsea Art Museum, into a mini red-carpet event at New York Fashion Week.

Brooklyn Decker, Nicole Richie, Molly Sims, Melissa George, Beth Ostrosky Stern, Peaches Geldof, Irina Lazareanu, Tinsley Mortimer and Estelle were among the socialites, celebrities and music stars who mingled among the crowds at the champagne reception, in Marchesa gowns just as glamorous as those on the models.

Marchesa spring/summer 2010 Britain"s best award for Marchesa More from New York Fashion Week New York Fashion Week: Marchesa autumn/winter 2010/11 collection Catching the Balmain bug Paris Fashion Week: John Galliano

One had to spare a thought for the poor girls. I realise they are getting paid, but standing, almost motionless on a plinth, for an hour, in skyscraper Louboutin evening sandals and thigh-high boots, cannot be easy. I did notice a few surreptitious moments of toe wriggling and foot-shifting.

Designer Georgina Chapman, who is married to the Hollywood mogul, Harvey Weinstein, took inspiration for the new collection from the notorious adventuress, dancer and courtesan, Lola Montez, who was immortalised in the 1955 film, Lola Montes. Born in Ireland, she became famous as a dancer in America and Europe, invented "The Spider" dance, was the lover of the composer, Franz Liszt and mistress of King Ludwig 1 of Bavaria, among others, and ended up as a circus performer.

Vivid, scarlet silk and tulle, "flamenco"-style gowns, rich with elaborate detail, and a series of ultra-short, sculpted, "body" dresses, in the manner of "trapeze artist" leotards, in boudoir-pastels and deep jade, embellished with beading, fringing, and organza flowers, paid tribute to Montezs exotic life.

The 26-piece collection was full of all the intricate handwork for which Marchesa has become famous, and also introduced a new "pinwheel pleating" technique, which gave graceful, swirling volume to the hems of long gowns in sweetpea pink, white, cream, black and pearl-grey chiffon, organza and silk-crepe.